Industries

5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Oaxaquena Triqui, Albany

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

You’ll find the restaurant Oaxaquena Triqui in the back of the bodega of the same name — seven simple tables, with absolutely killer food. School girls in uniforms are doing their homework at one table, while their mother, Griselda, heads up a team of female cooks in the kitchen. Oaxaquena Triqui is bustling — the tables are full, the staff is jumping. Nonetheless, Griselda takes the time to walk us through the menu, and we ask her what their specialties are. The answers absolutely surprised — okay, shocked — us!

Chapulines (grasshopper) Taco — Chapulines (grasshopper) taco. If you look carefully, you can see them!

The first specialty we tried is not on the menu, but Griselda told us it’s a favorite — “chapulines.” Oscar replied, “Sancudo?!”, and she laughed and said yes, “the ones that jump around.” Turns out, chapulines is Spanish for grasshopper. Oscar, who grew up with a vegan mother, said that this was a challenge, for sure, but he was up for it. His review? Salty, spiced, crunchy and interesting!

The second specialty was no less shocking — Huitlacoche Huarache, otherwise known as “corn smut,” a fungus that grows on rotten corn. It’s a Oaxacan specialty and I’d read it about it, but never had a chance to try it. So…we ordered it, and it’s good! Tastes like a funky mushroom (which is exactly what it is!). Squeaky and squishy and totally unique. I recommend it, if you’re an adventurous eater.

Don’t Miss: The Chicken Mole

The third item we tried was the mole, a world-famous Oaxacan specialty. When I went to Oaxaca in the early 90s, I tried at least six different kinds of mole, and none of them was much like the chocolate-flavored sauces you find here in the States. Indeed, Griselda bristled when we asked if her mole tasted like chocolate. “No!”, she exclaimed. “Mine is spicy,” she said, and told us that she uses 30 ingredients to make it, and it takes two days until it’s ready.

Some of the ingredients are only found in Oaxaca, so she brings them herself, or they’re delivered here by visiting relatives, like her mother-in-law, who was in town when we visited the restaurant. We also tasted some ground-up, spicy worm powder, made of the same critters you find in mezcal. It’s quite good. These kinds of ingredients are what make Griselda’s spicy mole so special. And, the chicken was unbelievably tender. (Pro tip: if you don’t like spicy food, you can ask for the amarillo (yellow) mole, which is not advertised on the menu.)

There are a LOT of other choices for Anthony Bourdain-type adventurers — cow tongue, menudo (tripe stew), cecina (salty beef), chicharron (pork skin), squash blossoms, and more. But there’s so much here for everyone. The neighborhood and atmosphere are not fancy, but the food is fit for a king. Can’t recommend it enough.

Oaxaquena Triqui, 77 North Lake Avenue, Albany, 518-465-0080. Open Monday through Saturday, 10:30am – 8pm.

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5 Fantastic Latin-Owned Restaurants: Casa Latina Pupusas Y Mas, Hudson

December 6, 2021 By Maureen Sager

At Casa Latina, everything — from the guajillo salsa to horchata (a sweet, cinnamon-flavored rice drink) to the soft, warm corn tortillas — is made on site. A few blocks off of swanky, expensive Warren Street, Casa Latina is an affordable oasis. There are four indoor tables, outdoor seating, and a parking lot (a rarity in Hudson). Mexican paper decorations and Frida Kahlo portraits spruce up the funky, functional décor. And, the food is prepared in sight of the tables. You’ll see for yourself, the Romero family knows how to cook, and they know how to hustle!

Our super-friendly waiter, Javier (the son of owner/chef Maria), walks us through the menu. We ask what’s the specialty of the house, and he says everyone loves the tacos (it’s true, they’re fantastic). But tonight we’re looking for something less usual, so he tells us to try the sopes ($8), a traditional Mexican dish consisting of a fried masa base with savory toppings. You’ve got your choice of cheese, beans, pork, or steak. They’re hearty and heartwarming, and will keep you filled up on a cold winter’s day. One of the cehfs, Alberto, is from the Puebla region of Mexico, and these sopes are his specialty.

Make Sure to Try: The Pupusas

While you’re here, make sure to try the pupusas ($3-$4), too. What are they, you ask? Pupusas are a delicious corn masa flatbread and the national dish of El Salvador. Owner and head chef Maria Romero is Salvadorean, and these recipes are ones that her familiy has made for generations. The pupusas are filled with one or more ingredients and served with curtido (cabbage slaw) and salsa. We tried the loroco sopes (loroco is small, green flower buds that are used for flavoring in Central America). They’re fantastic!

Oscar and the horchata — Oscar digs the horchata

Oscar declared that their homemade horchata ($3) was one of the best he’s ever had. “Every sip tastes like Christmas,” he said, thanks to the canela (cinnamon). The Romeros’ humble demeanor belies the accolades they receive from a huge range of visitors, and in just three years, they’ve become a Hudson institution.

Casa Latina Pupusas Y Más, 78 Green Street in Hudson, NY; (518) 653-1334. Open Monday through Saturday from 10am to 9pm; closed Sundays.

Cutting to the Hilt – The Craft of Blademaker Jordan LaMothe

December 5, 2021 By Corey Aldrich

As sometimes happens, mid-summer I found myself in the middle of Averil Park, NY, sitting outside a yurt in front of a large, pallet-fueled fire pit with my good friends Chris and Josh. We were enjoying a little Japanese whiskey when someone I had not met before rolled up to the group. A quiet and contemplative man who when opened up, revealed a whole new world of artisan craft to me. Meet Jordan LaMothe, an artisan blade maker.

Please introduce yourself and tell us a little bit about your creative life and craft?

I am a blacksmith and knife-maker based in Hebron, NY, and I make all manner of blades from chef knives to swords. My work is a continual balancing of form and function; to make pieces that are both highly effective cutting tools and elegant, visually pleasing objects. When I make a knife, I start with raw bars of steel from the mill, forge weld different alloys to create an intricate pattern, and shape the blade with hammer and anvil. I then transform that forged blank into a cutting tool: hardening and tempering the steel, and grinding and sanding the blade to refine the shape and edge geometry. I then fit a handle to the blade, carefully selecting the material and sculpting it for the desired visual and ergonomic effect.

How did you get interested in knife making? What special education / skill did you need to acquire?

I began blacksmithing at the age of fourteen in order to make tools and hardware for use on the family farm. In two years, I made my first knife. I was captivated by the variety of creative processes involved: forging, grinding, machining, woodwork, leatherwork. So, I joined the American Bladesmith Society and dove into the craft, reading books and online forum posts, experimenting in my own shop. Then I started bringing my knives to accomplished bladesmiths for their critique.

I imagine you are doing custom work for a lot of folks in the food industry. Has the pandemic had an effect on your business?

I am fortunate that the pandemic has not affected my knife sales in any noticeable way. Many of my culinary knife clients are avid home chefs, and that market has done quite well with so many folks working from home. However, several of the classes I was scheduled to teach in 2020 and 2021 were cancelled due to the pandemic.

With the proliferation of mass production in your industry, how do you differentiate yourself?

People buy my work because it has a story, because they like the aesthetics of my work, and because they trust me to create tools that will perform well and last a long time. A mass-produced knife is a completely different product and a different marke. There are some terrific mass-produced knives, but generally people are looking for something “good enough” for their particular needs. When you purchase a knife from me, you receive a piece that is truly unique and personal—something no one else in the world has.

What are your long term goals with your craft? What would you like to accomplish?

My current goal in my craft is to broaden the variety of techniques that I can apply to my pieces. I am interested in doing more work with precious metals as well as inlay and engraving. I also want to do more research and documentation of historical swords and daggers in order to make pieces that remain faithful to the long traditions from which they descend.

Any thing you would like us to know about specifically? Any upcoming classes or exhibitions?

In 2022, I am going to be traveling to Rajasthan, India, on a Fulbright grant in order to study koftgari: a technique for applying gold and silver onto iron that has been used for hundreds of years to embellish sword and dagger hilts. I will resume teaching classes and attending shows once I return in 2023.

EDITORS NOTE: For more information or to contact Jordan directly about commission work or classes hit him up on these website or social media platforms:
Web: www.jordanlamothe.com
IG: @jordanlamotheblades

The Authentic 518: Charming Small Towns on the Outskirts

November 17, 2021 By Cabrina McGinn

Brown’s Brewing Taproom in Hoosick Falls

Centuries before automobiles emerged as the singular mode of transport, the Industrial Revolution exploded upward from its epicenter of Manhattan, through the waterways that carve the landscape of Upstate New York. As a result of this rapid expansion, mill towns popped up along the creeks and streams that branch from the Hudson River.

Unlike many of the city centers in the Capital Region, the charming small towns in htis story haven’t been bulldozed for strip malls and high rises. Instead, they maintain the architecture and ambiance of the time in which they were founded. Lucky for us, they’re all just a short automobile ride away! So if you’ve ever had the urge to play out your Schitt’s Creek fantasy, or if you’re someone for whom ‘antique’ is a verb, plan your next day trip to one of these charming small towns!

Greenwich

Tour the amazing architecture all around the town square

Surprisingly, the town I hadn’t heard of before was the one with the most going on! Greenwich has some of the most beautiful historic homes in the Capital Region. Plus, there’s a bustling main street with restaurants, cafes, antique shops and craft stores.

Get your Christmas on at The Country Peddler

Formerly known as Whipple City, the town grew up around a cotton mill and continued to flourish until the mid 19th century. Be sure to take a stroll through the surrounding neighborhoods to see some of the best examples of 18th and 19th century architecture that Upstate New York has to offer.

There’s homemade white bread at Lynn’s Country Cafe

There’s great food and drink in Greenwich, too. Argyle Brewing offers tasting flights and food trucks. Nearby, Elsassers 111 offers Flammkuchen (German-style flatbread pizza). Stop into Greenwich Hardware to explore a selection of antique furniture and farming equipment, or to Wicked Wicks for handmade crafts, cappuccinos, and sip-n-paint classes. The Christmas Attic and the Country Peddler offer Christmas tchotchkes and fresh fudge year-round. And don’t miss Wallie’s, a Greenwich institution since 1929, serving patrons for almost a century in the heart of this beautiful village.

Your Greenwich Itinerary:

Kinderhook

Certainly the swankiest of the bunch, Kinderhook has drawn Michelin-star chefs, restaurateurs, and other impressive proprietors from New York City and Hudson in recent months. And, this small town was home to the nation’s eighth president, Martin Van Buren; you can still visit his estate house, Lindenwald, which is now a museum in his honor.

The food and architecture is awesome in Kinderhook. First, pop into the Saisonnier (French for farmhand) to enjoy some fresh beer and a delicious charcuterie board. Then, cross the town square to take a look at the Knitting Mill, a new project that will house several businesses in a renovated 1860’s knitting factory. The building is currently home to Morningbird and OK Pantry, with a restaurant, cocktail lounge, gallery, and apothecary line opening in the coming months. Down the street, Meghan Calcagno brings her family’s 150-year old bagel recipe from Brooklyn to Kinderhook with Broad St. Bagel Co. They’ve recently expanded to the spot next door with Focaccia Bakery, where they offer Old World Italian bread and pizza.

Your Kinderhook Itinerary:

Saisonnier
Broad St. Bagel Co. | Focaccia Bakery
DYAD Wine Bar
Cosmic Donuts
Morningbird | OK Pantry
Martin Van Buren Lindenwald

Hoosick Falls

The little village sits almost on the border of Vermont, just a hop, skip and a jump away from Bennington. The gazebo at the center of town is the spitting image of the one in Stars Hollow (the fictitious Connecticut town that serves as the backdrop for Gilmore Girls). Thankfully for us, the rest of the architecture in town follows suit.

View of the Walloomsac from Brown’s Brewing

Artists Norman Rockwell and Grandma Moses both lived in the area; their paintings are exhibited in museums around the world as examples of American Folk Art from Upstate New York and Vermont.

In more recent times, Brown’s Brewing brought fame to the area once more when they renovated a mill on the Walloomsac River. The beautiful spot now houses a brewery and full restaurant, drawing tourists from all over New York State. The Potter Hill Barn, a ‘primitive gift store’, is another classic Capital Region staple, operating for more than 25 years.

Meanwhile, young business Iron Coffee Co., has seen a booming clientele since launching their roastery in 2016. And, new favorite Hoosick Provisions is an absolute must-stop for anyone looking for their Rose Apothecary moment. You’ll find local cheeses, homemade pastries and regional produce, set against the backdrop of 19th century exposed brick.

Your Hoosick Falls Itinerary:

Schuylerville

Schuylerville is sometimes called America’s most historic village, because the Battle of Saratoga — known as the “Turning Point of the American Revolution” — was fought here. Later, in the 19th century, captains-of-industry arrived, harnessing the Fish Creek and Hudson River that made Shuylerville into a bustling township. Today, this quaint village remains a cultural hub of Upstate New York.

If you want good hikes and views of the waterways, Schuylerville is for you! Stop into Bound by Fate Brewing or The Basin Grill to enjoy a brew or bite on their beautiful patios overlooking the water. Then, get your steps in at Hudson Crossing Park and check out the beautiful Dix Bridge, a pedestrian bridge that crosses the Hudson River into Washington County.

Your Shuylerville Itinerary:

Schoharie

This charming village might be the Barn-Quilt capital of Upstate New York. On the main drag alone there are four businesses exhibiting large quilt-like signage on the outsides of their historic buildings.

As a result of its rural location, Schoharie is home to a number of regionally famous farms & farm stores. As a result, local produce, plants, prepared foods and artisan products abound. One of my favorites is The Carrot Barn, a Capital Region institution offering local produce and products from all over Upstate New York. (Surprise, surprise, the carrot cake is to die for). My family has been going to Wellingtons for years – run by retired couple Carolyn and Frederick. Their 45-acre farm offers landscaped gardens, artisan gifts and collectibles. And, there’s a tea room where Carolyn serves her signature gooey butter cake and island tea.

Generations, A Vintage Consignment Store

Stop by consignment shop Generations, which offers — dare I say it — the best selection of antiques that I’ve ever come across outside of the city centers. While you’re there, say hi to Ann, a lifelong Upstate New Yorker with years of stories and Schoharie history!

Your Schoharie Itinerary:

The Carrot Barn
Schoharie Valley Farms
The Apple Barrel Store & Cafe
Generations, A Vintage Consignment Shop
The Farmers Beef & Brew
Wellington’s Herbs & Spices

This article is presented in collaboration with Straight Upstate. Visit the blog on instagram @straightupstate or online at https://straightupstate.com

Born and raised in the Capital Region, Cabrina McGinn started her blog in 2019 to highlight the exceptional bars and restaurants that the 518 has to offer. Prior to that, she had spent many years in the restaurant industry, bartending all over New York State. While the blog was started with the intention of focusing solely on cocktails and craft beverages, Cabrina has expanded the blog to feature food, events, hotels, and other unique and exceptional things that you can only find in Upstate New York. Cabrina lives in Saratoga Springs and enjoys exploring the Hudson Valley and Adirondacks on the weekends.

Up Close and Personal with DJ HollyW8D

November 17, 2021 By Corey Aldrich

I caught up with DJ HollyW8D recently to check in on the current status of the underground social scene and find out a little more about what makes this former Brooklynite-come-Upstate man tick. I believe I first met him at an event Cory Nelson was throwing back in the Troy Kitchen days but this is the first time we have got to have a little heart to heart.

Please introduce yourself! How long have you been a DJ and do you do it full time? Any other gigs you’re holding down to pay the bills?

My name is Mario Johnson, aka DJ HollyW8D. I am originally from Brooklyn, NY. I found my way to the Capital District to play football at Hudson Valley Community College. After that I graduated from UAlbany with a degree in Communications & Rhetoric. I started my DJ journey at WCDB 90.9 FM in 2016 and haven’t looked back since.

I have been a full time DJ since 2017. I incorporate different aspects into my lifestyle to help pay the bills such as teaching DJ lessons along with throwing events and helping other artists with their business and branding.

I know from personal experience that you bring a lot of excitement to an event. What’s your motivation?

My motivation is my mother who worked very hard to get me to where I am today. As a first generation US-born Jamaican descendant, I felt pressure to make my family proud. Besides wanting to be successful for myself it is also for my family and to inspire my peers.

Last year was rough for performers with limitations on live events. Has your calendar gotten back to
normal this year? How is it different?

Everyone was eager to get back outside so that helped a lot. Attendees being cautious post pandemic has still been a factor. Shifting to in person experiences and taking the brand digital has definitely helped out. Less venues want to take the chance of having large crowds within their space now.

How has the last year changed your craft?

Last year showed me how powerful having a digital footprint is within social media. From throwing virtualshowcases (@Hous3chella : Instagram LIVE) to teaching virtual DJ lessons. These days, you must never leave a stone unturned.

Any upcoming events you would like to plug?

I started doing a lot of collaborations on events this year, Friday November 12th I will be co – hosting an ‘All About My Business’ networking event at the ground up cafe in Albany, NY. The event is black and brown focused but open to all who are looking to increase their circle of like minded individuals.

Additionally, I will be bringing some energy to this month’s Etrice Gallery opening in Downtown Albany. ‘HIATUS’ will be on Saturday November 20 th featuring Albany artist Jalaun Taylor. Roll in, network and feel the vibes. “It`s more than music…and I am more than just a DJ.”

EDITORS NOTE: Keep an eye out for the ongoing series of variety themed events across the Capital Region that Mario curates called ‘More Music Less Violence.’